What: A 60-suite hotel (plus one cottage) on 243 lush forested acres that's so exclusive that you have to practically win the lottery to book a room. Most accommodations include a terrace and/or deck; the spa suites are outfitted with a hot tub, wicker chairs and hammock on the deck. The hotel also has Japanese hot baths, a spa and two outdoor pools, one clothing-optional.
Where: High above the wavy Pacific Coast Highway, 28 miles south of Carmel, in the tawny hills of Big Sur.
When: Whenever. California's climate is so dry and inviting — and the persistent drought means no winter rainy season.
Why: Because Ventana offers the kind of rustic luxury so readily found in Big Sur, one of the most pristine and seductively gorgeous regions of the nation's most beautiful state. The air is crystal clear and softly scented with eucalyptus and pine.
Working Well: Paul Corsentino is the new executive chef at the Restaurant at Ventana. He showcases the seasonal bounty of West Coast cuisine by changing the menu daily, from a Dungeness crab appetizer to a main course of Alaskan halibut with wicked desserts such as pear tarte tatin and old-fashioned staples like chocolate pudding cake. The four-course tasting menu is a reasonable is $75. You have the choice of eating on the heated outdoor patio, nestled in the hillside that overlooks the Pacific Ocean, or in the wood-paneled indoor dining room where a continental breakfast is also served.
Needs Work: Getting to the restaurant is an adventure. You must walk along a winding pebbled path through a forest to find it. It seems sublime on the way in, as you pass a pair of rocking chairs that look out on redwoods and live oaks, but coming back in the dark is tricky, even though the restaurant provides flashlights. More illumination, please.
Must Try: Just down the road from Ventana is the Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park. You will regret it the rest of your life if you don't park your car and check out the short hiking trail off the southbound lane of PCH. It offers a view of the stunning McWay falls, where teal-colored waves crash on the rocky beach and the only visitors are the local birds. You'll thank the deity of your choice that Donald Trump never found his way out here to ruin everything.
Competitive Edge: The Ventana's outdoor patio has several levels that extend over the property and offer panoramic views of the Pacific. There are comfortable couches for visitors to relax and enjoy the last rays of an autumn day.
Details: From $600; ventanainn.com
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