Most of the fashion titles reported strong Septembers, but after a dismal first half, it has not been enough to push their totals into positive territory for the year to date.
Heading into the stretch run, Ariel Foxman's InStyle has a narrow two-page lead over Anna Wintour's Vogue in the closely watched ad page battle of the big fashion magazines.
InStyle stands at 1,924 ad pages through September, compared to Vogue's 1,922, even though Vogue dominated September once again with 631 ad pages (down 4.5 percent for the month) compared to InStyle's 485 (up 6 percent).
The dramatic numbers coming for the crucial September issues are raising hopes for a strong finish to the year.
Kevin O'Malley, publisher of Elle, reported the biggest issue in the mag's history — as well as the largest single issue ever published by Hearst, which inherited the US edition of Elle when it took over most of the Lagardère titles outside of France in 2011. September's Elle, edited by Robbie Myers, had 465 pages, up 5.2 percent from a year ago. Year to date, however, it is still down a touch, 2.4 percent, at 1,774 ad pages.
"When retailing is soft for four or five months as it was earlier this year, it means consumer spending is down and advertisers are cautious," said O'Malley. "But we have had a good start to the second half and based on that I think we should be in pretty good position by the end of the year.
"It is not happy days are here again exactly, but I think retailers are expecting an uptick in consumer spending and that should mean advertisers are willing to spend more."
Harper's Bazaar, led by publisher Carol Smith and edited by Glenda Bailey, publishes only 10 issues this year, but its September was a single issue record for the magazine at 444 ad pages, and its 11.6 percent increase was the largest percentage gain of any of its rivals.
It was the only fashion magazine in the pack trending ahead of last year, up 6.2 percent.
Vogue was able to close the gap considerably with its arch-rival InStyle. Its 631 ad pages in September were the most in the fashion category, but still not enough to catch InStyle's total for the year to date.
Vogue is still off 4.5 percent from a year ago and down 5.5 percent for the year to date. InStyle is off only 2.6 percent through September.
Vogue Publisher Susan Plagemann said that the print ad page derby is not the only barometer to watch these days. "My digital advertising is through the roof," she said, "up 30 percent after a 20 percent jump last year … Now advertisers have five different platforms they can invest in."
InStyle publisher Karin Tracy is predicting the mag will "absolutely" wear the ad page crown for the full year — which would mark the sixth year in a row with that distinction. InStyle has been in that position each year since Foxman took over as the top editor.
Still, she acknowledges the strong September has not erased the early-year slump.
"I think it was part of the macro trend of retailing being down," Tracy said. On the other hand, luxury goods have been strong, particularly jewelry and watches, which are up 50 percent year over year, she said.
Digital has not quite offset the decline in print, she said, but "the goal is to continue to move in that direction."
W, the oversized glossy edited by Stefano Tonchi, was up 5.2 percent to 303 ad pages in September. It is only publishing 10 issues this year, down one issue from a year ago, according to InStyle publisher Lucy Kriz .
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